LaserJune 18, 2026· JP T
Dialing in kerf for press-fit joints
A five-minute calibration that turns loose, rattly finger joints into a satisfying tap-together fit.
Every laser cuts a slightly different kerf — the width of material the beam vaporizes. Ignore it and your finger joints come out loose. Overcompensate and nothing fits at all.
Cut a test comb
Cut the calibration comb from the same stock you'll use for the real part. Same material, same thickness, same power and speed. Kerf changes with all of them.
- Measure the slot width with calipers.
- Compare it to the nominal width in your file.
- The difference, divided by two, is your per-edge kerf offset.
Apply it once
Store the offset against that machine + material combo and the Box Maker applies it automatically on every export. Cut once, fit clean.
Rule of thumb: 3mm ply on a 60W laser lands around 0.10–0.18mm kerf. Always verify — your mileage will vary by a lot.
Frequently asked questions
- What is kerf on a laser cutter?
- Kerf is the width of material the beam vaporizes as it cuts — usually 0.05 to 0.2mm depending on the machine, material, power, and speed. It matters because it shaves material off both walls of a slot and both sides of a tab, which is exactly what leaves finger joints loose.
- How do I measure my laser's kerf?
- Cut a test comb from the exact stock you'll use, measure a slot with calipers, subtract the nominal width in your file, and divide by two. That's your per-edge kerf offset. Never pull a number off a forum — kerf changes with material, thickness, and cut settings.
- What is a typical kerf for 3mm plywood?
- On a 60W laser, 3mm ply usually lands around 0.10 to 0.18mm. Treat that as a starting point, not gospel — always verify on your own machine, because it varies by a lot.
- Do I have to recalibrate kerf every time?
- No. Store the offset against that machine-and-material combo once and the Box Maker applies it automatically on every export. Cut once, fit clean.